Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. no timing control. On EFI systems such as Holley's Sniper, all of the EFI sensors (except for the O2 and coolant temperature sender) are mounted snuggly in the throttle body. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. Just getting it to act right at startup is a struggle. Wish I had bought my sniper from you, but unfortunately didnt. He said they have been having an issue with these lately. IAC looks good once it finally s fires. Is there any chance that your timing has changed since you installed your Sniper? Did your process to adjust idle to 860. Why is this? Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. Yes, let me know how that setup process works. have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the Let me be perfectly clear: If your engine will not drop below 1350 RPM with the idle speed screw turned all the way out then you have an air leak. You can drop it down and you will find it will behave more like you expect. Anyway I have a 327 sbc in a 1987 Monte SS with a T5 5 speed and 3:73 posi rear. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pressure--- since I have a new Spectra EFI tank and there's been some reports of the interior coating coming off and gumming up the pump however the sniper display DOES NOT show fuel pressure.the Sniper DOES measure fuel pressure on its own - i've confirmed that with holley techs as they told me to purchase the fuel pressure gauge that can just hook up to the 1 wire gauge harness from the Sniper. Since the shield was put on, not a single problem, not one. One way is to very carefully watch the handheld monitor, and that may be adequate. To figure this out it's going to be important to gather a bit more data. issue. He has walked me through every question Iv. :-). By the way your site and your accessory products are nice. Thanks for your very detailed question! So I had my Idle set up perfect, with idle timing control off and engine hot the IAC was right at 2-4%. In addition to avoiding this particular problem, the total solution is much better. We do that but most places don't. When you have the issue you should disconnect all hoses and plug the ports on the Sniper. This is normally used as an A/C idle-up circuit. Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. I recommend you have a look:https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro-hangout/holley-sniper-efi-instruction/solving-sniper-rfi-problems, I recently purchased your fixed linkage to open primaries first and the throttle linkage extender to also get a smoother pedal. Comp. Having a TPS that won't go lower than 9% will affect the acceleration enrichment correction, and could create a stumble at the first moment of throttle opening.Yes, the IAC can and will fluctuate depending on changing conditions. You're going to have to get this fixed or it's going to cause even more problems than the high idle. To be honest, you sound like an ideal candidate for Sniper ECU ignition timing control. Once you've done this, the next natural step is to transfer the learn table to the base map, then go in and smooth out the sharp edges, which are going to be at these transitional states. Thank you for this guide on setting IAC. The engine makes very low vacuum at idle. In the warm state IAC adjusted to a position of 2 to 10%. Holley EFI Electronic Fuel Pressure Gauge, article on choosing between Sniper and Terminator X throttle body solutions. A question I cannot get a 100% answer on is can you piggy back off the Sniper EFI TPS for an electronic transmission? The jack-rabbit start can usually be minimized by adjusting the throttle linkage. If you have somehow overlooked this, start here: Holley Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions: Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard. As soon as I got the new one installed and wiredit fired right up and did everything it was suppose to do with no issues. Turning off and then on again, the engine returns to normal. There is no real mystery here. Glad to hear that you have timing control enabled, Gary. However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. Holley documentation and videos didn't work and the $300 I paid for "expert" tuning didn't work either. Good afternoon Chris, thanks for taking the time to help all of these folks that didn't purchase from you- myself included!The issue I seem to be having is at idle in both park/neutral and drive. 3 different fuel pumps. Enjoy your Sniper! Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. i would have been happy to answer there. They always responded to my questions with guidance that helped me choose the right system for me. The warmer the motor, the higher the idle will be at this point. When I turn it off and try to restart it just cranks. I have probably 200 - 300 miles on this engine and it has always done this. You can re-enable this after you have completed this idle speed adjustment process. You want to ensure that nothing is hung up in there.The only thing that I can think of that would cause the fuel pressure to spike when the motor starts is the increased fuel flow at the higher alternator voltage (jumping from 12.0 to 13.5 volts or so.) This is a mighty big subject for a blog post reply, I should probably start doing some videos on this. Fuel Prime Multiplier is primarily a benefit to throttle-body based EFI systems. I would suggest you take a look at that if you haven't already. And your question is very perceptive: You must first know whether the bog is a lean or a rich condition before you can make the correct adjustments. Ran 2 Holley carbs and an Edelbrock. Ok, so there are a couple peculiar things going on here. When I put it in gear, it drops so low that it will stall if I don't add throttle. I have it set at 650 and it idles anywhere from 590 to 700. Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). I am new to the EFI scene but want to learn. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. Price Point: $$$. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. On a cold start it will idle at 750 everytime, But if its hot start it will jump upto 1600rpm for 2 seconds then come back to 750. During after-start idle, the idle will jump up to about 70% if the engine is cold, stay there about 4 seconds and then ramp down to the target idle speed for the current engine temperature. Switch power to the Sniper on and crank the engine. You mentioned going from 13.5 to 14.2 but you'd want to go in the other direction--maybe to 13.2. If more info is needed just ask. I had HIGH Idle issue and fixing this curve FIXED the ISSUE --- THANK YOUCan you explain what "Current Learn % means, after finally fixing the idle problem this % jump from -1 to -30% in about 5 minutes at idle with CTS @ about 170.Also when starting the car at hot the engine goes to about 2300+ RPM for a few seconds then crashes down to my Hot idle speed of 950 -- bounces a little and then smooths out. If you drop it too far the engine will stumble or stall when coming off the throttle with the car out of gear, so you'll know when you've gone too far. I know this is old, but I bought and installed a Sniper kit in 9/18. But nothing beats a good solid gut-check I enalble the idle timing control and fired it back up Iac was at 32% but it would come back down after a bit to around 26%. The fix? Idle : IAC Rampdown : IAC hold positionChange this by maybe 2% in either direction. Car has run perfect every time and has never hesitated or stalled since. Give it a watch: https://youtu.be/7SO7-tZn6iw. If My car will not idle right until it gets to around 130 -140 degrees. Thanks, That is an strange situation. I installed a Holley Sniper on my Ford Maverick 302 V8. Thank you in advance for your help and providing us rookies with your If it does then you can put on a heavier spring so the advance doesn't come in as fast, or use a lighter weight. If your TPS has snuck up to 2% then your IAC will be at the hold position, which by default is 30%. The throttle blade adjustment is at 2-6% at hot idle, and with warm engine 185F. But, if the idle is so high that it is making you crazy then you might try dropping that number just a bit. Or ?I have put a fuel pressure gauge right at the inlet of the sniper and it is reading 60-64 psi. Sometimes it sounds like it wants to crank at the start but runs out of gas. I've helped folks work through a number of challenges with their Sniper EFI System installations. If not then you have some other issue that is behind this increased idle. After speaking with Holley Tech Support and Tech Support from where I purchased the systemthey decided to replace it. When I first told him to check for leaks he looked back there and said "all good". I think that your Sniper system is working fine but would definitely check ouf the fuel pump. Fought a high idle issue until I changed your idle speed curve fix along with dropping the IAC hold to 10%. I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you. Took it for a lap around the block and came back. Going back to what you said. Maybe give it a half-turn before you start it and then start and tweak. It could be, but that seems unlikely.Instead, you need to look at the basics. My primary reason for going EFI was drive-ability, (Startup and take off without waiting for the engine to warm up) and not have the occasional hesitation a carburetor has especially just barely opening the secondaries. In fact, it is those users who seem to end up most impressed with the system. Learning to install these is great--you're about to embark on the next great adventure of advanced troubleshooting. Purists will sniff that these are not accurate to the tenth of a PSI. We're having trouble with a Ford Maverick 302 V8, using ethanol. Otherwise, if removing the air cleaner eliminates the whistle then try to use a thicker gasket or try lightly greasing the gasket. I know its not flooded because I can pour a little gas in the throttle body and play with the accelerator and it will start and run fine. I've been trying to correct that 1% small issue/annoyance. And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. Engine has never stalled with Sniper system, once placed in Drive it just goes!!! Nice to meet you. That is the IAC hold position. Your second problem should be a bit more concerning. About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. I did notice that when I thought I had it set First--besides the fact that it's not represented on the display, it is not even a parameter that you can datalog. Changing the rpm curve and target rpm has no effect. installing and cruising down the highway 70 mph I just wonder if all I have to do It won't take much! Turn the idle speed screw on the primaries in about 2-3 turns after it makes contact with the linkage and starts opening the primary throttle blades. Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. As far as the timing light, I don't know, because I was having problems getting it to work, and that's where I stopped. I will confirm TDC with balancer but I have had balancer off and timed it before and after with same results. I have checked the pink wire and it is at .001 volts when key is off. But another thing to consider is adjusting your target A/F ratio. That will happen occasionally, but less as time goes and on and the engine tune stabilizes. Intake has been on and off 3 times no change. Hi Chris, I have a lean stumble on throttle tip in 2-3% tps taking off from a stop light the afr will go to 19afr and the engine will stumble for a split second. Any help would b great. There are six different acceleration enrichment tables that you can tweak and that may be the way to go. Between the kick down and the return springs on the throttle body the pedal is so hard to push it's pretty much a jack rabbit start every time from stop, it's almost undrivable, any suggestions on what I could do?thanks for help, I've tried both Holley's tech lines for close to 2 hours with no answer! If you feel you have no other choice but to run a Sniper and stand-alone controller then you can give this a try. It starts cold fine, its just when its hot. I have adjusted many settings and eventually mess it up and go back to the original map. It has a lightweight centrifugal spring kit installed so I reach total timing around 2500 rpm. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. I did check for the lightning under the hood but all was well. As I said above, you could have a bad IAC, but then again, the IAC might be fine and there's a deeper problem such as RFI noise causing the issue or a vacuum leak that is confusing things. I can drive it a bit but pops through the throttle body when pulling out from a stop (4 speed) and sometimes in the exhaust out on the road. Unless you have ignition control enabled, that is the only thing it can do to reduce the idle.Realize the only things that can cause the car to idle up as you describe are air and ignition advance. datsun sniper efi Holley RetroBright This 1974 Datsun 620 Bulletside Cruises With The Help Of Sniper EFI Bradley Iger 01/13/2023 features Latest News sweepstakes 2023 Hemi Engine Sweepstakes Gen III Hemi Enter To Win Holley's 2023 Hemi Engine Sweepstakes For Your Chance To Win A 600+ Horsepower 392 Stroker! I appreciate everything you are saying. The tps will not auto reset to zero. Throttle Tip-In puts you in a part of the fuel map where you stay for only milliseconds at a time. Great work, expert! Shut off car/restart and it's back to idle at The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. Any ideas here? That is the only way to fly. Could you provide me with some things to check or some things to adjust? If you are using your Sniper EFI System to control timing, navigate to Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark and ensure that the Idle Spark Enabled is set to Disabled. Definitely would have went with you guys. mean that the IAC is causing it. If I keep the rpm's up it does fine but my clutch can't keep up with this for long.Also when I cover the IAC port the engine dies. you have it set. Then do it just a bit faster--just enough for it to bog a bit. We are using Target AFR of 9.0: 1, Fuel Base approximately 40% higher. As inconvenient as it might seem, I'd recommend keeping a timing light handy and checking your timing during the high idle condition and then again after restarting. Seems to be working. It will drop down to 400 RPM then climb 500 and then shoot to 900 and then come back sometimes two or three times then catch it self an idle just fine again. They also recommended that their ground be spliced into the Sniper ground as close to the Sniper as possible. We have shipped quite a few of these to customers in Australia and New Zealand so I know that there is becoming a good following there!We recommend this Inline 10-micron fuel filter to prevent problems like that. At any rate, once the setting was moved up, the RPM jumped right to the target RPM and was solved. check out the. Or is there something else I should It is made by one of the biggest names in fuel filters and sold under the Parts Master label so it is quality and great price in one. The weather in Ct has finally improved and I have put about 60 miles on the car with the Sniper system. and when I close the IAC's hole with his finger, the engine is normal.The data on the touch screen I see are:AFR, A / F = 35.6 Again, I would lean on that solution to let the vehicle drive/learn before you try to "fix" anything. When I drive with warm engine the IAC is at 30% when pushing gas, but shouldn't it be at 0%? Then follow all of the instructions above, including confirming the idle speed curve setting at -40 degress as well as following my 10-step process for setting the idle. But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. Start engine let it warm up to 160, learn mode is learning. Holley Sniper Iac Delete Is there away to lean the idle out? If the IAC number is increased during this high idle, review the points about high idle from tuning issues. (Do this while you are cranking.) I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you either don't have adequate fuel flow or pressure. technical rep said "You ahve high fuel pressure". If the engine will after the 4 seconds that the IAC kick drops off then it's not really going to help.At any rate, it costs you nothing to advance the ignition and see if that doesn't improve the idle, right? If the solutions suggested above are not working then you need to review my article on IAC Testing Procedures. I asked him a million questions and waited a long time to save up before purchasing the system and I have asked a lot of questions throughout the installation process. Fortunately, Holley has another product that can solve that: Hydramat.. Hydramat is not inexpensive but you won't believe what it can do. The engine ran so good, I would have never suspected the Fuel Pressure to be an I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. This was an issue in the earliest version of the Sniper firmware. Plus, you can email that file to me and I can be of more help. By the time I was near home, the idle in Park was 1050, IAC 0. Im not sure what its doing, have messed with after start fuel, fuel at cranking. If the TPS is 1% or below then the ECU is in control--2% or greater and the ECU thinks you've got it under control. These problems will go away when you do that. Give that a go and see if you don't make some progress! Yes, having an accurate TPS is very important at idle. It's not that they (or any other manufacturer) is 100% perfect. Software: Idle > IAC Settings > Idle Spark, Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark, After completing this 10-step process, if the temperature displayed on the handheld is still above 160 degrees the engine should go right to it's target. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. At low levels RF interference will often reset the ECU so quickly that the engine will not stall. I' m going to put the 3 rd new pump this coming friday. SNIPER EFI TO HOLLEY DUAL SYNC HARNESS Part# 558-493 $34.44 Qty: Add To Cart Idle Air Control Motor Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems Part# 543-105 $71.72 Qty: Add To Cart I put it in neutral and the idle RPM had increased to 2100-2200. Is this normal ? the issue I set the AFR at 13.5 and all is good now. )If you rule out a fuel supply issue then we're going to have to gather a few more clues. such high fuel pressure. Are these compatible enough? If your fuel pressure is at or about 60 PSI then visually inspect the barrels of the throttle body while having someone key on the Sniper. I' m going to put the 3rd new pump this coming friday. Sniper is still learning so it will continue to improve.Second, you may have heard the phrase, "correlation is not causation." Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. I think you'll be all set! The Sniper EFI replacement throttle body for Autolite 1100 carburetors will be right at home on most early in-line 6 cylinder powered grocery getters or weekend cruisers. If you patiently adjust this over the course of days you will get it just right.Again, glad this is working for you and look forward to a good report in the future! hard start about 1/2 throttle from stop it bogs down after 3 or 4 seconds.What I (Don't drive and watch--get a helper!) What should I be looking at to calm this down? This curve turns the idle speed down as the engine warms. I've increased the IAC rampdown time to 8 seconds to try to combat this, but wondering if it will correct itself over time or if I need to possibly replace this TP sensor. Perfectif you have the original synchronous linkage. The progressive link can be a great solution on standard (non-Stealth) throttle bodies but I would install this LAST after everything else is working perfectly. Jump on board now! I think you will find that it will learn its way through this. My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. I've been having problems with my sniper efi just shutting off. While it is not mandatory, I recommend the Sniper EFI CAN-to-USB Adapter to move the data between your Sniper EFI and your PC rather than trying to do this via the SD card. However, I have never found that to be the case. I'm also having a high idle problem but its different. If the regulator is working correctly and there is no restriction in the return line that should make no difference however.Sorry I didn't see this on the Holley forum. If the TPS is 1% or below then the air is coming from somewhere else. Thank you. Yes it is controlling the timing and I had issues at first and it controlled the idle just fine. Closed Loop Compensation rises to 100%, Do I just keep pushing it the same way to It is always best to get the base map as close as possible before adding acceleration enrichment. All in all, considering the system has been installed for less than 2 hours drive time we're BLOWN AWAY at how quickly it is "learning" this engine. (Plus they it just looks way cool in your engine compartment!) Simply use your handheld controller and go to the Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Speed screen and click on the Idle Speed Curve function. When the idle speed screw is turned all the way out there should be just enough room between the bore and the blade to catch your fingernail. Good )Since this isn't a consistent issue with all Snipers that tells me that different IAC settings tend to make the whistle. The link above includes the option to buy a -6 AN (If you do this you will need to reset the -40 degree setting mentioned at the top of this article. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. But, whether your vendor provides you with tech support or sends you to Holley, I'd start by getting them a data log and asking for some insight. Maybe Holley will add Fuel Prime Multiplier to Terminator X later. By the way, this is a new installation on a 69 Camaro, stock 350, dual sync, etc. That 60% (which is configurable) is known as the Clear Flood TPS. I had this same exact issue. If you have performed the adjustments above and still have RPM issues, it's time to look for clues. Drives just fine but won't stay running unless I keep my foot on the gas. I.e. At this time, TPS is 0%, IAC is 50 to 60%. If this is the case then some adjustment of the linkage or the butterfly plates themselves is necessary. I'm running a 408 sbc. Jun 12, 2021. I ask because I'm using a PCV valve with my Sniper and have random idle issues as well. The problem I'm having is I cant get the IAC to drop down off 100%. What might cause the TPS to go to 2%? I straightened that out, got it running and that's where it goes downhill. If you go too high then the motor will not return to your target idle when you come off the throttle. Thanks for the information you have provided on this site. Should i adjust idle screw with the fans already on? It is working fine when you restart the car, controlling idle perfectly at 8 steps open so it is unlikely to fail when the car warms up--or correct itself instantly when you restart it..So, if you don't have any vacuum leak, and the throttle plates are fully closed, the only thing I can guess is something is causing your ignition timing to change. Price Point: $$, EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. Laptop Access it will jerk and rpm will go up and down and AFR will be around 20 : 1 or more or less. Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. The engine runs beautifully, with perfect idle at 650 RPM, but every now and then I hear the IAC give a sort of "snap" and the idle is at 1200 RPM.
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